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1 Coastal Systems Group, Department of Geology and Geophysics, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, Massachusetts 02543, USA
2 Department of Earth and Ocean Sciences, Nicholas School of the Earth and Environment/Center for Complex and Nonlinear Processes, Duke University, Durham, North Carolina 27707, USA
| ABSTRACT |
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| INTRODUCTION |
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Zenkovich (1959, 1967) suggested a qualitative model whereby the appearance of long-axis cuspate forms and the eventual segmentation of elongate water bodies could be attributable to waves generated by winds blowing across the long fetch parallel to the main axis, arriving with crests at angles >45° relative to the long coastlines. Recent theoretical and numerical studies (Ashton et al., 2001; Ashton and Murray, 2006a) have investigated how such high-angle waves lead to the initial formation and subsequent self-organization of cuspate features. Here we present results from a model of coastline evolution modified to represent the generation of waves within an enclosed water body. As simulated cuspate shoreline features extend across a water body, a fascinating new dynamic emerges: by changing the wave fetch fields on opposing coasts, these growing capes and spits attract one another across the water body, eventually segmenting it into smaller, round water bodies. This process modeling confirms many aspects of Zenkovich's phenomenological model (1959 (1967), but suggests significantly different mechanisms for final water body segmentation.
| WAVE-INFLUENCED SEGMENTED LAKES |
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| HIGH-ANGLE-WAVE SHORELINE INSTABILITY |
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| METHODS: NUMERICAL MODEL |
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b is the orientation of breaking wave crests, and
is the shoreline trend. As in other one-contour-line models (Hanson and Kraus, 1989), gradients in alongshore sediment transport are spread across the shoreface depth D. The model has been improved from previous generations to allow the evolution of more than one simply connected shoreline domain, including islands not attached to the main coast.
The major difference between the model used here and the one presented in Ashton and Murray (2006a) is that rather than forcing shoreline changes from an assumed external wave source, waves are generated locally as a function of the length of water, or fetch, that winds from a given direction blow across. We use a basic equation to determine wave height assuming no depth limitation (using relationships from Komar, 1998):
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To determine the breaking values used in Equation 1, the computed local deep-water waves are iteratively refracted onshore using linear approximations and assuming shore-parallel contours until depth-limited breaking. All of the simulations here use the simplest wind climate scenario possible, an isotropically distributed wind climate, with a new random wind direction chosen each simulated high wind day.
The crucial relationship in Equation 2 is the wave height dependence on the square root of the fetch. As long as the wind distribution remains unchanged, altering the wind speed only affects the scaling of simulated time to actual time (e.g., Ashton and Murray 2006a). Although the simulations presented here are for a set of fixed parameters, as with a physical experiments, the results can be rigorously rescaled for different characteristic values of Uw and D and different-sized water bodies as long as alongshore sediment transport processes remain dominant.
In keeping with the general exploratory modeling approach focusing on the fundamental system behaviors and nonlinear feedbacks (Murray, 2007), the treatment of waves is simple. More detailed treatment of waves, including refraction over non-shore-parallel contours (Falqués and Calvete, 2005) or accounting for depth constraints upon wave generation (e.g., Carniello et al., 2005), should have a quantitative, rather than qualitative effect on modeled behavior. The model is also idealized as it assumes that the coast consists of mobile, noncohesive sediment whose long-term evolution is unaffected by the underlying geological framework.
| RESULTS: MODELED BEHAVIOR |
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Once these shapes coarsen in wavelength and cross-shore amplitude such that they extend significantly offshore (approximately half-way across the water body), a new dynamic emerges: regardless of whether they are aligned directly across the water body, the cusps grow together. Offset cuspate shapes migrate toward one another and eventually merge, segmenting the domain. After segmentation, the new, smaller water bodies are not sufficiently oblong to cause shoreline instability, and the lakes eventually tend toward a circular shape, reflecting the characteristics of the wave climate (in other simulations, not shown, asymmetrical wave distributions lead to more elliptical bodies of water).
| RESULTS: LOCAL WAVE CLIMATES |
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, with –1.0 indicating a fully unstable wave climate and 1.0 indicating a fully stable wave climate) (Fig. 3).
Similar to an open coast (Ashton and Murray, 2006b), the generation of shoreline undulations results in increased local stability (
> 0), with unstable wave climates only at the cape tips (
< 0) (Fig. 3). The wave roses also illustrate how the growth of shoreline capes and segmentation change the fetch fields, leading to reduced local proportions of high-angle waves.
Net alongshore sediment transport is directed toward the tips of the cuspate features and they continue to grow. If a shoreline feature extends across the water body and it is not directly opposite another cape or spit, it begins to block waves from its side of the lake or lagoon (Figs. 2 and 3). The resultant asymmetry in the wave climate experienced by a cape or spit on the opposing shoreline causes it to migrate alongshore toward the feature creating the fetch limitation. This fetch-limiting feedback acts symmetrically across the water body. Thus, growing features attract one another and eventually merge. This new dynamic revealed by the model contrasts with the hypothesis that features are either inclined to initially form across from each other, or that the "laws of wave refraction" set the scale for segmentation (Zenkovich, 1967, p. 518).
| DISCUSSION |
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Where can this segmentation process be expected to occur? The phenomenon discussed here should not be expected to occur in all elongate water bodies, only those with noncohesive (e.g., sand or gravel) banks actively reworked by waves. In many small fetch environments, development of bank (shoreline) vegetation and the potential subsequent deposition of cohesive sediment could prevent wave transportation of sediments. Segmentation would therefore be favored where vegetation growth is slow or frequently interrupted, such as in cold and arid environments where even small waves can keep the shore free of vegetation, or on the backs of frequently overwashing barriers. Elsewhere, larger fetches and stronger winds would be required for waves to be sufficiently strong to prevent vegetation from stabilizing banks.
In some wave-influenced locations, cuspate shoreline features exist, but cross-body connection does not appear imminent. Significant tidal flows, which would become faster as flow is constricted, appear to often prevent segmentation. Also, if the water body is too deep and sedimentation rates are low, segmentation through cuspate spit growth may take too long to occur compared to other long-term environmental changes.
Here we have, for the first time, used a process-based approach to study the fascinating behavior arising from the interactions of opposing shores, delivering additional insight through analysis of modeled wave climates. The presence of cuspate shoreline features along many of the long coasts of natural elongate water bodies serves as an additional test of the high-angle shoreline instability hypothesis presented in Ashton et al. (2001). The segmentation of water bodies reproduced here is observed in many locations and environments, which include backbarrier lagoons (Figs. 1A, 1B, 1E, and 1G), reworked kettle ponds (Figs. 1D and 1H), flooded drainages (Fig. 1I), and even Carolina Bays (i.e., elliptical depressions found along the mid-Atlantic coastal plain of the United States) (Fig. 1F) (Johnson, 1942). Whatever the formation mechanism of an elongate water body, the process of fetch-limiting self-organization as a means of cross-water-body connection should be considered as a probable reason for the appearance of chains of round lakes in many clastic settings.
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| ACKNOWLEDGMENTS |
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| FOOTNOTES |
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| REFERENCES CITED |
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Ashton, A., and Murray, A.B. 2006b, High-angle wave instability and emergent shoreline shapes: 2. Wave climate analysis and comparisons to nature: Journal of Geophysical Research, v. 111, F04012, doi: 10.1029/2005JF000423.[CrossRef]
Ashton, A., Murray, A.B., and Arnoult, O. 2001, Formation of coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by high-angle waves: Nature, v. 414, p. 296– 300, doi: 10.1038/35104541.[CrossRef][GeoRef]
Carniello, L., Defina, A., Fagherazii, S., and D'Alpaos, A. 2005, A combined wind wave–tidal model for the Venice lagoon, Italy: Journal of Geophysical Research, v. 110, F04007, doi: 10.1029/2004JF000232.[CrossRef]
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Johnson, D. 1942, The origin of the Carolina Bays: New York Columbia University Press 327 p.
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U.S. Army Corps of Engineers 1984, Shoreline protection manual (fourth edition): U.S. Department of the Army Coastal Engineering Research Center Technical Papers and Reports.
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Wright, C.I., Miller, W.R., and Cooper, J.A.G. 2000, The late Cenozoic evolution of coastal water bodies in Northern Kwazulu-Natal, South Africa: Marine Geology, v. 167, p. 207– 229.[CrossRef][Web of Science][GeoRef]
Zenkovich, V.P. 1959, On the genesis of cuspate spits along lagoon shores: Journal of Geology, v. 67, p. 269– 277.[Web of Science][GeoRef]
Zenkovich, V.P. 1967, Processes of coastal development: Edinburgh, London Oliver & Boyd 738 p.
Received for publication 27 June 2008
Revised manuscript received 13 October 2008
Manuscript accepted 15 October 2008
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